Have you heard of Dr. Ali N. Syed?
If the answer is no, don't fret you're not alone. I had not come across this name before until October 2025.
I was at Salon International an event held annually in London and made my way to one of my favourite brands... Avalon! I'm sure if you have a coily, curly or wavy hair texture you might have heard of Avalon.
They have amazing products to meet your hair needs: shampoo, conditioner, leave-in conditioner, edge control, relaxers etc. The following blog posts will centre the book Curly Hair: structures, properties and care by Dr. Ali. N. Syed.
This was the first time I had seen a book at a hair event, usually anything that's written down is on a small pamphlet or card usually linked to a product or service but not knowledge. Naturally I was intrigued and had to buy it who wouldn't want learn more about their own crown so let me tell what I have learned so far.
Disclaimer:
Since becoming a qualified hair dresser I no longer subscribe to the Type Chart founded by Andre Walker - simply because it's not accurate and was a ploy to peddle product. It wasn't until recently that I came to learn that the natural hair community themselves added the term 4C because it had not occurred to Andre Walker, himself, to include that texture but I doubt he forgot by accident.
Before educating myself I would've sided with the chart but since learning more about hair I've changed my mind and I hope to change yours too or at least challenge your assumptions.
Why I no longer subscribe to 'Type 4c'?
The classification is not scientifically based nor objective. It's great representation but that's it, the chart does not provide detail on the actual structure of the hair. It's similar to Kibbi body type system, we can agree that no matter your body type most human are made up of a system of vital organs, skeletal muscular system, neurotransmitters etc enabling them to function. What their body looks like is due to genetics (nature) or lifestyle (nurture) and the same point applies to hair.
Having 4c hair may describe the hair texture but what about other components that contribute to hair health like the scalp, what structures make up your hair strand, what's the function of the hair follicle? Andre Walkers type system cannot address these question but science can.
What's next?
The next blog post will be an official introduction to the structure of your hair, this applies to everyone. When you touch a strand of your luscious locke, have you ever wondered what's going on inside?
Image from: Mello Hair article: The Disappointing Truth About The Most Popular Hair Chart (March 08 2020)
Source: The Disappointing Truth About The Most Popular Hair Chart – Mello Hair Solution